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Vegetarian Cooking For Everyone (Hardcover)
by Deborah Madison
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Cookbook, Original books |
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| MSL Pointer Review:
Here it is - the complete vegetarian bible. |
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Author: Deborah Madison
Publisher: Broadway
Pub. in: October, 1997
ISBN: 0767900146
Pages: 752
Measurements: 10.4 x 8.2 x 1.9 inches
Origin of product: USA
Order code: BA00937
Other information: 1st edition
ISBN-13: 9780767900140
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- Awards & Credential -
Vegetarian Cooking For Everyone is the #1,625 in Books out of millions on Amazon.com as of February 7, 2007. The author Madison received the M.F.K. Fisher Mid-Career Award in 1994. His book The Savory Way, which won the award for Cookbook of the Year in 1990 by the International Association of Culinary Professionals, and another book The Greens Cookbook sold more than 300,000 copies. |
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- MSL Picks -
Deborah Madison's latest book represents nothing short of a culinary masterpiece. In a well-intentioned executed attempt to get people to eat less or no meat, many vegetarian cookbooks have subordinated vegetables to the function of "meat substitute."
The book itself is extremely well-organized, with natural divisions between the foods discussed. A tremendous amount of information on vegetables, grains and legumes is there for the taking - making Vegetarian for Everyone as much of a reference book as a cookbook. The margin notes that she provides with each recipe offer a wealth of insight into serving suggestions, as well as anecdotes and tips from her professional and pre-professional years in the kitchen. One of the most valuable aspects of this book is the extensive treatment given to sauces, condiments and salad dressings. By using these recipes alone, you can add new dimensions to just about any food you prepare - meats and vegetables alike.
Ms. Madison comments on almost every dish: what to look for in the ingredients, serving suggestions, and some notes on modifications. This is a very comprehensive guide to cooking; for example, she describes 9 kinds of squash and 8 types of cooking oil! There is a very helpful extensive index. If you're a beginning vegetarian, or one with certain dietary needs, you might want to begin with a more focused book. For the seasoned veteran, however, this is a thorough and well-written collection of recipes that taste as delicious as they sound.
Buy the book, prepare the recipes, and enjoy.
(From quoting M. Greenbaum)
Target readers:
Food lovers, housewives, professional cooks, or hotel and restaurant managers.
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Hailed as one of the most creative cooks in America, Deborah Madison is the author of The Savory Way (to be released in paperback by Broadway Books in February 1998), which won the award for Cookbook of the Year in 1990 by the International Association of Culinary Professionals, and The Greens Cookbook. The founding chef of the Greens restaurant, Madison received the M.F.K. Fisher Mid-Career Award in 1994. Her articles appear in Saveur, Fine Cooking, Kitchen Garden, and Gourmet, and she writes a monthly column for Eating Well. She has been a board member of the Santa Fe Area Farmers' Market for the past six years in Santa Fe, where she lives with her husband, Patrick McFarlin.
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From the publisher
What Julia Child is to French cooking and Marcella Hazan is to Italian cooking, Deborah Madison is to contemporary vegetarian cooking. At Greens restaurant in San Francisco, where she was the founding chef, and in her two acclaimed vegetarian cookbooks, Madison elevated vegetarian cooking to new heights of sophistication, introducing many people to the joy of cooking without meat, whether occasionally or for a lifetime. But after her many years as a teacher and writer, she realized that there was no comprehensive primer for vegetarian cooking, no single book that taught vegetarians basic cooking techniques, how to combine ingredients, and how to present vegetarian dishes with style. Now, in a landmark cookbook that has been six years in the making, Madison teaches readers how to build flavor into vegetable dishes, how to develop vegetable stocks, and how to choose, care for, and cook the many vegetables available to cooks today.
Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone is the most comprehensive vegetarian cookbook ever published. The 1,400 recipes, which range from appetizers to desserts, are colorful and imaginative as well as familiar and comforting. Madison introduces readers to innovative main course salads; warm and cold soups; vegetable braises and cobblers; golden-crusted gratins; Italian favorites like pasta, polenta, pizza, and risotto; savory tarts and galettes; grilled sandwiches and quesadillas; and creative dishes using grains and heirloom beans. At the heart of the book is the A-to-Z vegetable chapter, which describes the unique personalities of readily available vegetables, the sauces and seasonings that best complement them, and the simplest ways to prepare them. "Becoming a Cook" teaches cooking basics, from holding a knife to planning a menu, and "Foundations of Flavor" discusses how to use sauces, herbs, spices, oils, and vinegars to add flavor and character to meatless dishes. In each chapter, the recipes range from those suitable for everyday dining to dishes for special occasions. And through it all, Madison presents a philosophy of cooking that is both practical and inspiring.
Despite its focus on meatless cooking, Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone is not just for vegetarians: It's for everyone interested in learning how to cook vegetables creatively, healthfully, and passionately. The recipes are remarkably straightforward, using easy-to-find ingredients in inspiring combinations. Some are simple, others more complex, but all are written with an eye toward the seasonality of produce. And Madison's joyful and free-spirited approach to cooking will send you into the kitchen with confidence and enthusiasm. Whether you are a kitchen novice or an experienced cook, this wonderful cookbook has something for everyone.
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I love to serve these with a glass of sherry, a bowl of pumpkin soup, or a salad of pears and endive. The butter melts into the crisp toast; the cheese stays on top. It's heady and very aromatic.
Makes 8
8 slices baguette or country bread
4 ounces Roquefort, Maytag, or Danish blue
3 tablespoons butter at room temperature
1 teaspoon cognac
1/4 cup finely chopped walnuts
Freshly milled pepper
Finely chopped parsley
Toast the bread under the broiler until nicely browned on one side, then a little less so on the second. Cream the cheese and butter until smooth, then work in the cognac and three-quarters of the walnuts and season with pepper. Spread on the paler side of the toasts, then broil until the cheese is bubbling. Remove, dust with the remaining nuts, and garnish with parsley. Serve warm.
Lentil Soup
Savored over a large part of the world, lentil soups are one of the best-liked, easiest-to-cook, and most varied of soups. The earthy flavor of lentils is complemented by Indian spices, Western herbs, cream, tomato, greens, and anything slightly tart, such as sorrel or lemon.
German brown lentils are the ones we see most commonly, and they make good soups. But the tiny French slate-green Le Puy lentils, available at specialty stores and in bulk at many natural food stores, make the prettiest and most delicious soups. They're entirely worth the slight extra cost, and in my kitchen they are the lentil of choice. Indian red split lentils turn yellow when cooked and fall into a puree, as do other split lentils, which makes them ideal for smooth lentil soups.
Lentils don't need to be soaked, but they do need to be picked over for tiny stones. They cook in just 25 minutes, and salt should be added at the beginning. Like most bean soups, lentil soups taste better a day after they're made.
Lentil Minestrone
This is one of my all-time favorite soups. It's better when cooked ahead of time, but add the cooked pasta and greens just before serving so that they retain their color and texture.
Serves 4 to 6
2 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra virgin to finish
2 cups finely chopped onion
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1/4 cup chopped parsley
4 garlic cloves, chopped
3 carrots, diced
1 cup diced celery or celery root
Salt and freshly milled pepper
1 cup dried green lentils, sorted and rinsed
Aromatics: 2 bay leaves, 8 parsley branches, 6 thyme sprigs
9 cups water or stock
Mushroom soy sauce to taste
1 bunch greens--mustard, broccoli rabe, chard, or spinach
2 cups cooked small pasta--shells, orecchiette, or other favorite shape
Thin shavings of Parmesan, preferably Parmigiano-Reggiano
Heat the oil in a wide soup pot with the onion. SautÚ over high heat, stirring frequently, until lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Add the tomato paste, parsley, garlic, vegetables, and 2 teaspoons salt and cook 3 minutes more. Add the lentils, aromatics, and water and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer, partially covered, for 30 minutes. Taste for salt and season with pepper. If it needs more depth, add mushroom soy sauce to taste, starting with 1 tablespoon. (The soup may seem bland at this point, but the flavors will come together when the soup is finished.) Remove the aromatics.
Boil the greens in salted water until they're tender and bright green, then chop them coarsely. Just before serving, add the greens and the pasta to the soup and heat through. Serve with extra virgin olive oil drizzled into each bowl, a generous grind of pepper, and the Parmesan, thin shards or grated.
Winter Squash Soup with Fried Sage Leaves
The technique used to make this soup can be repeated for other soups, the seasonings - be they sweet or spicy - varied to suit your tastes. Although the soup is good without it, the cheese adds a flavor note that punctuates the natural sweetness of the squash. The Warm Crostini with Blue Cheese and Walnuts are also an excellent accompaniment.
Serves 4 to 6
2 1/2 to 3 pounds winter squash
1/4 cup olive oil, plus extra for the squash
6 garlic cloves, unpeeled
12 whole sage leaves, plus 2 tablespoons chopped
2 onions, finely chopped
Chopped leaves from 4 thyme sprigs or 1/4 teaspoon dried
1/4 cup chopped parsley
Salt and freshly milled pepper
2 quarts water or stock
1/2 cup Fontina, pecorino, or ricotta salata, diced into small cubes
Preheat the oven to 375 F. Halve the squash and scoop out the seeds. Brush the surfaces with oil, stuff the cavities with the garlic, and place them cut sides down on a baking sheet. Bake until tender when pressed with a finger, about 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a small skillet, heat the 1/4 cup oil until nearly smoking, then drop in the whole sage leaves and fry until speckled and dark, about 1 minute. Set the leaves aside on a paper towel and transfer the oil to a wide soup pot. Add the onions, chopped sage, thyme, and parsley and cook over medium heat until the onions have begun to brown around the edges, 12 to 15 minutes. Scoop the squash flesh into the pot along with any juices that have accumulated in the pan. Peel the garlic and add it to the pot along with 1 1/2 teaspoons salt and the water and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer, partially covered, for 25 minutes. If the soup becomes too thick, simply add more water to thin it out. Taste for salt.
Depending on the type of squash you've used, the soup will be smooth or rough. Puree or pass it through a food mill if you want a more refined soup. Ladle it into bowls and distribute the cheese over the top. Garnish each bowl with the fried sage leaves, add pepper, and serve.
Celery Root and Potato Gratin
A broth made from the celery root trimmings replaces half of the cream usually found in potato gratins without loss of flavor or texture. Celery root has a haunting flavor that always reminds me of truffles, which are an excellent addition should you be so lucky. (If I were using truffles, I would use all cream in the dish.)
Serves 4 to 6
1 garlic clove and butter for the dish
1 celery root, about 1 pound, scrubbed
1 pound potatoes, preferably Yellow Finn or Yukon Gold
1/2 cup cream
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
Salt and freshly milled pepper
1 cup grated GruyÞre
Preheat the oven to 375 F. Rub a 2-quart gratin dish with the garlic and then with butter.
Peel the celery root and put the parings in a 3-quart saucepan with 3 cups water and whatever remains of the garlic. Set a steamer over the top and bring to a boil. Quarter the root, then slice it 1/4 inch thick. Steam for 5 minutes and remove to a large bowl.
Peel the potatoes, slice them into thin rounds, and steam for 5 minutes or until tender, then add them to the celery root. Strain the cooking liquid, measure 1 1/4 cups, and mix it with the cream and mustard. Pour it over the vegetables and toss well. Season with 3/4 teaspoon salt and pepper to taste. Transfer the vegetables to the gratin dish, smooth them out, and cover with the cheese. Bake until bubbling and browned on top, about 30 minutes.
Roasted Onions on a Bed of Herbs
A spectacular-looking dish for minimal effort - perfect for the holidays. Look for onions with crisp, papery skins. They're fine without the herbs, too.
Serves 6
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons olive oil
3 large yellow onions, halved and peeled
Salt and freshly milled pepper
4 sage sprigs and several thyme sprigs
1 cup dry white wine or water
Heat the butter and oil in a wide skillet, then add the onions, cut sides down. Cook over medium-high heat until well browned, about 15 minutes. Check their progress occasionally - those on the outside of the pan usually take longer to cook, so partway through switch them with those in the middle. When browned, turn them over and cook on the curved side for a few minutes. Season well with salt and pepper.
Preheat the oven to 375 F. Line the bottom of a 10-inch earthenware dish such as a round Spanish casserole with the herbs. Place the onions, browned side up, on the herbs and pour in the wine. Cover with aluminum foil and bake until tender when pierced with a knife, 1 hour or slightly longer. Serve warm with or without the Quick Vinegar Sauce for Onions.
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A reader (MSL quote), USA
<2007-02-07 00:00>
I just counted 34 cookbooks in my kitchen, but this is the one I use the most. Only the Joy of Cooking gets an equal workout. This book is the only vegetarian cookbook I've ever seen that:
1) Is comprehensive enough to cover every ingredient you have in your fridge (if you have a head of fennel and a potato, and nothing else, you will probably be able to find a recipe);
2) Is neither too far in the "twigs pebbles and roughage" camp nor the "80 ingredients you never heard of and 3 hours you don't have" camp. Most recipes are reasonable in scope and actually flavorful, although if you want to create a fancy banquet you can.
Even if you are not a committed vegetarian (I'm not), but you just want to eat healthier, or to avoid the "vegetables turning into science experiments in the fridge" thing, this is a tremendous great resource.
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A reader (MSL quote), USA
<2007-02-07 00:00>
I bought this book when I was tired of making limp salads, dull and boring pasta and overworking my herbs. Used Amazon.coms reviews to help make my purchase. Debbie Madison gives you so much more than just recipes, she provides the knowledge about everything that goes into our food that is key to understanding the way a dish works and why it was put together that way. I have used her recipes both word-for-word and as a guideline and my dishes have improved radically. Whats more, her innovative stocks, soups, pastas and vegetables team wonderfully with good well made basics from Fannie Farmers cookbook - no wonder since it looks like Marion Cunningham and Debbie Madison have a well-established collaboration! I do not own the Joy of cooking, but I feel like I have the best allies in my kitchen when I make American/ Californian food! Coming from the world of Indian cooking which absolutely calls for fresh ingredients for the best food, I really appreciate the effort that has gone into explaining the worth of vegetables, herbs and other ingredients in making food for the mind, body and soul. We need crusaders like these in these days of burgers and pizza.
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Katie (MSL quote), USA
<2007-02-07 00:00>
You don't have to be vegetarian to get your money's worth from this cookbook. I refer to this cookbook often to find excellent side dishes that compliment my main courses. I enjoy all the helpful information ranging from how to pick out a good eggplant to roasting peppers. And what I truly appreciate is that every recipe I use, from the Tomato and Broccoli Salad to the Pear Pudding, turns out tasting wonderful and recieves many compliments from my guests. If you are looking for a cookbook that you can trust with failproof recipes, this book is definitely for you!
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B. Marold (MSL quote), USA
<2007-02-07 00:00>
Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone by Deborah Madison is festooned with placards representing virtually every American cookbook award possible for any one book. I am more than happy to follow suit by giving this book five stars with a bullet Virtually the only complaint I have about the book is that based on the title, the book has sat on my shelves for about a year, being opened only to search out a recipe for a particular vegetable, in much the same way I would open one of my several books on vegetable cooking.
This book should be called "All Cooking for People Who Don't Eat Meat", as it is indeed a cross between the Joy of Cooking plus a cooking textbook from Anne Willen or Madeline Kamman, with all the references to cooking meat, fowl, game, fin fish, or shellfish removed. It's odd that the book's cover touts Madison as the author of The Greens Cookbook, as this book is much more a successor to her later book, The Savory Way as a general audience cookbook rather than a restaurant menu book.
Another of the many reasons I regret the time I have lost in discovering the virtues of this work is that I have spend great praise on similar vegetarian cooking manuals such as Madhur Jaffrey's World Vegetarian, Peter Berley's The Modern Vegetarian Kitchen, and Jack Bishop's The Complete Italian Vegetarian without advising the readers of those books that there is another title which is as good or better than these other volumes. All have their virtues, but Madison's book is the best. This is due to no little extent to her concentrating on vegetarian dishes known to and loved by Americans. While the Italians and the Indians have great vegetarian cuisines, the familiar dish will serve much better than the non-familiar. And, Ms. Madison, according to my new and improved title for her book, includes a very nice chapter of advice on entertaining with meatless dishes. Another subject which none of the other books touch is the issue of matching wines with meatless dishes. Ms. Madison even takes on the challenge of recommending a wine to accompany artichokes. My meager wine knowledge goes no further than to say she agrees with Mario Batali's recommendation. That's good enough for me!
Ms. Madison is a model of modesty when she claims not to have given us a book on all possible subjects, as specialized books on artisinal breads and regional cooking and pasta making and pastry making can cover those subjects much better than she can in a general cookbook. That doesn't mean she has not done a bang-up job on the coverage of the topics she has chosen to present. This is how I think she fares on six of my favorite general cooking topics:
On omelets, the treatment is concise, possibly shorter than the very detailed description by Elizabeth David, but excellent nonetheless. She touches every single recommendation I have heard about making the classic French omelet. My only reservation may be that since omelet making is all about technique, a few pictures would have really filled things out, especially as Ms. Madison's artist makes a great contribution when his drawings do appear. There are only three variations, but then, there are hundreds of variations available in the library of books on French cooking. Ms. Madison gets an A+ on her presentation of the general method.
On stocks, Ms. Madison only has to deal with vegetable stocks, but I believe she has done the very best job of treating vegetable stocks I have seen anywhere, including the treatment given in a book on vegetarian soups. She is especially careful to warn us to only put something in a stock if we are willing to eat it. Stocks are no place for garbage. She also keeps the simmer time down to below the recommended time by stock experts like the CIA. But, she goes far beyond this contribution in that she gives an analysis of what goes well together in vegetable stocks, and what should be left out.
On yeast breads, only a few basic recipes are covered, yet these are presented in such an effective way and with such positive words of encouragement that one may feel guilty in not making your own sandwich bread.
On sandwiches, one can wonder exactly what you can do if you leave out meat. Ms. Madison has many, many pages of suggestions on meatless sandwiches, topping it all off with a great series of toasted cheese sandwiches and meatless quesadillas.
On pasta making, her presentation may not replace the books by Marcella Hazan, but you could do much worse than to learn your pasta making from Ms. Madison. The best news for the amateur is that unlike Ms. Hazan, Ms. Madison gives you instruction for hand, stand mixer, and food processor techniques. Both machine methods are probably a real boon for people who love the idea of making fresh pasta but do not have the hand strength to manage the kneading of stiff dough.
On sauces, Ms. Madison's recipes and technique are right on target. I have heard widely respected TV teaching chefs give plainly false information on sauce making. I have also experienced some really weak bechamel recipes in a cookbook under the Betty Crocker logo. Ms. Madison gets it all right. Of course, being a general cookbook, she does not cover as broad a range as, for example, James Peterson in his classic work on sauces, but then, why rewrite Peterson's book. I am simply happy that Ms. Madison included such useful classics as buerre blanc, mayonnaise, and pesto.
I am also happy that Ms. Madison avoided so many cliched dishes such as pasta Puttanesca. If I were not such a cookbook collecting obsessive (and a committed omnivore), I would simply stick with this book until I simply cooked it from cover to cover.
A truly great cooking text for liberal vegetarians!
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