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Sunday Suppers at Lucques: Seasonal Recipes from Market to Table (Hardcover)
by Suzanne Goin , Teri Gelber
| Category:
Cookbook, Original books |
| Market price: ¥ 358.00
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¥ 338.00
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Pre-order item, lead time 3-7 weeks upon payment [ COD term does not apply to pre-order items ] |
MSL rating:
 Good for Gifts |
| MSL Pointer Review:
It is a beautiful book with a heartfelt introduction and sentimental remembrances by Ms. Goin which will make you long for all the meals you missed at the family table. |
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Author: Suzanne Goin , Teri Gelber
Publisher: Knopf
Pub. in: November, 2005
ISBN: 1400042151
Pages: 416
Measurements: 9.4 x 8.2 x 1.4 inches
Origin of product: USA
Order code: BA00975
Other information: ISBN-13: 9781400042159
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- Awards & Credential -
Suzanne Goin is the owner of Lucques restaurant. Lucques is now recognized as one of the best restaurants in the country, and she is widely acknowledged as one of the most talented chefs around. |
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- MSL Picks -
For anyone who has dined at either of Suzanne Goin's Los Angeles restaurants (Lucques and A.O.C.) you know the standards for this book are as high as they can be. No detail is overlooked, and yet there is a lack of pretension and fussiness that is as refreshing as it is welcoming and comforting.
- Grouping dishes around a menu. Madame Goin realizes this concept so well because it wasn't something she thought up as a gimmick for this book. She has been serving fixed menu dinners at her Los Angeles restaurant, Lucques for several years. A few of the menus do coincide with a special occasion such as St. Patrick's Day, Mother's Day and Father's Day.
- Filling menus with dishes suitable to a particular season, so that most featured ingredients are in season together, such as a Spring menu featuring morels, peas, and strawberries or an Autumn menu featuring squash, cranberries, and apples.
- Providing menus which are suitable for a Sunday Dinner. This notion is almost totally new, as almost all other menu oriented cookbooks concentrate on special occasions. This may give the cook just a bit more freedom than giving only a single menu for, for example, Halloween, Thanksgiving, and Christmas. Here, you get to choose from eight different seasonal menus or even create your own menu from the 32 seasonal recipes, none of which are dedicated entirely to a single holiday.
Ms. Goin is very fond of a few somewhat special ingredients such as Mexican chorizo, ramps, Meyer lemons, blood oranges, and fingerling potatoes. All recipes have a very useful headnote and all recipes are written in an especially detailed manner, not leaving out many of the finer points of good cooking techniques and tips for making ahead. In the osso bucco recipe, for example, the author takes great care to describe setting up the braise by using a slightly lower than average oven temperature and taking special measures to insure that the braising liquid just covers the meat and that the braising liquid stays in the braising pan and does not leak out at the lid. Exceptional book of recipes and menus for entertaining!
- From quoting B. Marold
Target readers:
Food lovers, housewives, professional cooks, or hotel and restaurant managers.
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Suzanne Goin graduated from Brown University. She was named Best Creative Chef by Boston magazine in 1994, one of the Best New Chefs by Food & Wine in 1999, and was nominated for a James Beard Award in 2003, 2004, and 2005. She and her business partner, Caroline Styne, also run the restaurant A.O.C. in Los Angeles, where Goin lives with her husband, David Lentz.
Teri Gelber is a food writer and public-radio producer living in Los Angeles.
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From the publisher
Few chefs in America have won more acclaim than Suzanne Goin, owner of Lucques restaurant. A chef of impeccable pedigree, she got her start cooking at some of the best restaurants in the world - L'Arpège. Olives, and Chez Panisse, to name a few-places where she acquired top-notch skills to match her already flawless culinary instincts. "A great many cooks have come through the kitchen at Chez Panisse," observes the legendary Alice Waters, "But Suzanne Goin was a stand-out. We all knew immediately that one day she would have a restaurant of her own, and that other cooks would be coming to her for kitchen wisdom and a warm welcome."
And come they have, in droves. Since opening her L.A. restaurant, Lucques, in 1998, Goin's cooking has garnered extraordinary accolades. Lucques is now recognized as one of the best restaurants in the country, and she is widely acknowledged as one of the most talented chefs around. Goin's gospel is her commitment to the freshest ingredients available; her way of combining those ingredients in novel but impeccably appropriate ways continues to awe those who dine at her restaurant.
Her Sunday Supper menus at Lucques-ever changing and always tied to the produce of the season-have drawn raves from all quarters: critics, fellow chefs, and Lucques's devoted clientele. Now, in her long-awaited cookbook, Sunday Suppers at Lucques, Goin offers the general public, for the first time, the menus that have made her famous.
This inspired cookbook contains:
- 132 recipes in all, arranged into four-course menus and organized by season. Each recipes contains detailed instructions that distill the creation of these elegant and classy dishes down to easy-to-follow steps. Recipes include: Braised Beef Shortribs with Potato Puree and Horseradish Cream; Cranberry Walnut Clafoutis; Warm Crepes with Lemon Zest and Hazelnut Brown Butter
- 75 full-color photographs that illustrate not only the beauty of the food but the graceful plating techniques that Suzanne Goin is known for
§A wealth of information on seasonal produce-everything from reading a ripe squash to making the most of its flavors. She even tells us where to purchase the best fruit, vegetables, and pantry items
- Detailed instruction on standard cooking techniques both simple and involved, from making breadcrumbs to grilling duck
- A foreword by Alice Waters, owner and head chef of Chez Panisse restaurant and mentor to Suzanne Goin (one-time Chez Panisse line cook)
With this book, Goin gives readers a sublime collection of destined-to-be-classic recipes. More than that, however, she offers advice on how home cooks can truly enjoy the process of cooking and make that process their own. One Sunday with Suzanne Goin is guaranteed to change your approach to cooking - not to mention transform your results in the kitchen.
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Caramelized Bread Pudding with Chocolate and Cinnamon
This recipe is a lifer. I've been making it for more than 20 years, and every time I try to file it away, someone inevitably comes along asking for it. I brought it to my first staff get-together when I was working at Chez Panisse and, from then on, for all of the parties that followed, when I would even think of making something different, my friends and coworkers would cry out for this caramelized chocolate bread pudding. A few years later, the bread pudding gained an East Coast fan club, too. I was working at Alloro, a tiny restaurant in Boston's Italian district. Back then, the Mafia owned all the local cafés and had a monopoly on the dessert-and-coffee crowd. Whereas the other (probably wiser) restaurants on the street obeyed the unspoken law of not selling dessert, at Alloro we broke the rule and secretly served this bread pudding to our in-the-know customers. We worked hard to keep the highly requested dessert under cover, and it seems we succeeded: both the recipe and I are still around.
A few things make this bread pudding better than most. I love custards and am often disappointed by bread puddings with too much bread and not enough pudding. So be careful to use just a single layer of brioche, which creates a crispy crust but won't absorb all the rich, silky custard underneath. Once you break through the caramelized, toasty top layer and dig down through the luscious custard, a treasure of melted chocolate awaits you at the bottom.
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
4 or 5 slices brioche, or good quality white bread (I like Pepperidge Farm), 1/4-inch thick, crusts removed
3 extra-large eggs
2 extra-large egg yolks
1/4 cup brown sugar
1 1/2 cups heavy cream
1 1/4 cups whole milk
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
3/4 cup chopped bittersweet chocolate
1 tablespoon granulated sugar, for caramelizing the top
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spread the softened butter on one side of the brioche. Cut each slice in half on the diagonal and then again into quarters.
Whisk together the eggs, egg yolks, and brown sugar in a large bowl. Add the cream, milk, vanilla, cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt, whisking to combine well.
Sprinkle the chocolate over the bottom of a 9-by-9-inch (or equivalent) baking dish. Arrange the brioche, buttered side up, with slices overlapping just slightly, on the chocolate (there should be just a single layer of bread). Pour the custard over the bread, pressing down with your fingers to make sure the bread soaks it up. Place the bread pudding in a roasting pan, and pour warm water into the pan to come halfway up the sides of the pudding dish. Bake about 1 hour and 15 minutes, until the custard is set and the bread puffs up slightly. The pudding will be springy to the touch.
Let the bread pudding cool at least 10 minutes.
If you have a kitchen blowtorch, sprinkle the sugar over the top, and torch to brown and caramelize. You could run the pudding under the broiler to caramelize if you don’t have a torch, but be careful not to curdle the custard underneath. Serve the bread pudding from the baking dish at the table, using a big spoon.
Sautéed Halibut with Arugula, Roasted Beets, and Horseradish Crème Fraîche
The colored beets and bright green arugula in this dish make for a visually stunning presentation. The sweet roasted beets marinated in lemon vinaigrette play off the pure white fish and horseradish cream. Look for a few different types of beets, such as golden beets and Chioggia beets, and dress them separately, so the dark ones don't bleed their juices onto the lighter ones. In the spring, you could make this dish with wild salmon.
NOTE
Season the fish with lemon zest and herbs, roast the beets, and make the vinaigrette and horseradish cream in advance. When it's time for dinner, all you'll have to do is sauté the fish and dress the beets.
6 halibut fillets, 5 to 6 ounces each
1 lemon, zested
1 tablespoon thyme leaves
2 tablespoons coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
4 ounces arugula, cleaned
Roasted beets with horseradish crème fraîche (recipe follows)
2 tablespoons super-good extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Season the fish with the lemon zest, thyme, and parsley. Cover, and refrigerate at least 4 hours or overnight.
Remove the fish from the refrigerator 15 minutes before cooking, to bring it to room temperature.
Heat a large sauté pan over high heat for 2 minutes. (Depending on the size of your pan, you may need to cook the fish in batches or in two pans.) Season the fish on both sides with salt and pepper. Swirl the regular extra-virgin olive oil into the pan and wait 1 minute. Carefully lay the fish in the pan, and cook 3 to 4 minutes, until it's lightly browned. Turn the fish over, lower the heat to medium-low, and cook a few more minutes, until it's almost cooked through. Be careful not to overcook the fish. When it's done, the fish will begin to flake and separate a little, and the center will still be slightly translucent. Remember, the halibut will continue to cook for a bit once you take it out of the pan.
Scatter half of the arugula over a large platter. Arrange the beets on top, and drizzle with half the horseradish cream. Tuck the rest of the arugula among the beets, so you can see the beets peeking through. Nestle the fish in the salad, and spoon a little horseradish cream over each piece. Drizzle the whole dish with the super-good olive oil and a big squeeze of lemon.
Roasted Beets with Horseradish Crème Fraîche
4 bunches different-colored beets
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon diced shallot, plus 1/4 cup sliced shallots
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
2 1/2 teaspoons lemon juice
1/2 cup creme fraiche
1 tablespoon prepared horseradish
1/4 cup heavy cream
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 400°F.
Cut off the beet greens, leaving 1/2 inch of the stems still attached. (You can save the leaves for sauteing later - they are delicious!) Clean the beets well, and toss them with 2 tablespoons olive oil and 1 teaspoon salt.
Place the beets in a roasting pan with a splash of water in the bottom. Cover the pan tightly with foil, and roast for about 40 minutes, until they're tender when pierced. (The roasting time will depend on the size and type of beet.) When the beets are done, carefully remove the foil. Let cool, and peel the beets by slipping off the skins with your fingers. Cut them into 1/2-inch-thick wedges.
While the beets are in the oven, combine the diced shallot, both vinegars, 2 teaspoons lemon juice, and 1/4 teaspoon salt in a small bowl, and let sit 5 minutes. Whisk in the 1/2 cup olive oil. Taste for balance and seasoning.
Whisk the crème fraîche and horseradish together in a small bowl. Stir in the heavy cream, remaining 1/2 teaspoon lemon juice, 1/8 teaspoon salt, and a pinch of pepper.
Toss the beets and sliced shallots with the vinaigrette. (If you're using different-colored beets, dress each color in a separate bowl so the colors don't bleed.) Season with 1/4 teaspoon salt and a pinch of freshly ground black pepper, and toss well. Taste for balance and seasoning. |
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| View all 6 comments |
A reader (MSL quote), USA
<2007-03-01 00:00>
I haven't had much success with cookbooks from celebrity chefs-either they're overly complicated, with pages of ingredients, or they're the 'food network' type of cookbook (where one wonders who really came up with the recipes, the author, or a team of testers)?
So I purchased this cookbook primarily because the recipes themselves really intrigued me. They seemed simple, yet unique at the same time.
The recipes are time consuming, definately. But once you make a dish once, you can easily streamline the directions yourself, cutting out unnecessary steps. I tend to cut back on marinating and salting time, for example, and haven't had any negative effects.
Because the dishes take time, I've found I've been happiest when the end result has been unique enough to be worth the effort. The Devil's chicken thighs, for example, were delicious, and different enough from any other chicken dish I've made that I happy to have spent the time it took to make. Same goes for the halibut with roasted beets, and the torchio with cavolo nero, both of which I made on a weeknight after work.
I was also impressed by the attention to detail. Every recipe is designed for a group of 6--something so small, yet I find it so frustrating when a cookbook has quantities all over the map. The directions are extremely clear and concise, and I really appreciate the notes on prepping ahead. A home cook with a decent level of experience will have no problem. And the ingredient overviews at the beginning of each chapter are a perfect introduction to the seasonal menus.
A outstanding book that I love to cook from. I can't wait for the next one! |
A reader (MSL quote), USA
<2007-03-01 00:00>
I haven't gotten excited by a cookbook in years but Sunday Suppers was just the thing to get me back to the kitchen cooking new dishes. I love her sense of food and her unpretentious writing. Also, her focus on local foods from farmers and her simple ways to prepare them - never too much nor too little. Thank you Suzanne, for a great book.
Will have to say I am amazed at a couple of the pretentious reviews here. I mean really, start your own blog already and stick to the subject. Per favore. |
M. Key (MSL quote), USA
<2007-03-01 00:00>
This is one of my favorite cook books ever. I love the concept of seasonal ingredients. I had expected the recipes to take the typical 'top chef' approach - really hard, complex with tough to find ingredients. I was surprised by how easy the recipes are - and the outcome is extraordinary. Everything I have tried, from roasted apples, to the arugula and pomegranate salad, to braised short-ribs, has been outstanding. I found the directions crystal clear. And, the few times the ingredients were not readily at hand, the substitution was obvious (vanilla ice cream that I bought at the store instead of home-made cinnamon was just fine with the roasted apples). Well written, beautifully illustrated and photographed - this is a must have for even a semi-serious cook.
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Alice Q (MSL quote), USA
<2007-03-01 00:00>
This is a gorgeous book and the recipes are simple, quirky, thoughtful and elegant. It's perfect for someone who doesn't have hours so spend in the kitchen, but is looking for something new. It is organized around the seasons, and the emphasis is on market-fresh ingredients.
Some of the recipes are preceded by a little commentary explaining where they came from and their relationship to the restaurant. Knowing that I am making a dessert Suzanne Goin has made since childhood - or a salad that was devised for a special occasion makes the process more interesting for me. I love that she included "70s mom's chocolate bundt cake." We children of the 70s can relate!
This is also the kind of book that can inspire you to use a new method or riff on a recipe, even if you don't have all the ingredients pictured. The flavors are indulgent, but not over the top, and the recipes are interesting but not too complicated.
That being said, I've found some of the instructions to be imperfect. Some of the techniques are a little fussy, and some directions a little vague, but if you already know how to cook and you are interested in putting some new flavors together, I think you will really enjoy this book. |
View all 6 comments |
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